On the Grid. Discovering Barcelona’s Eixample District
Barcelona’s most expansive neighbourhood is an architectural and cultural marvel. For many locals, it’s the only place to be.
When looking for a short-term apartment in Barcelona, you are likely to find many popping up in a neighbourhood called the ‘Eixample.’ The first thing to know is that it’s pronounced ex-shamp-lay. The second it’s synonymous with Catalan history, architecture, art, and much more besides.
North of the old town and stretching from east to west across the Barcelona metropolitan area, the Eixample is the city’s largest barri. It also happens to hold the masterworks of Barcelona’s most famous son, Antoni Gaudí, along with the highest concentration of art- nouveau-style architecture in the world. It’s also the first neighbourhood in the world to be planned on a grid formation, an experiment amounting to the beginnings of modern town planning.
How did this happen? First a bit of history.
North of the old town and stretching from east to west across the Barcelona metropolitan area, the Eixample is the city’s largest barri. It also happens to hold the masterworks of Barcelona’s most famous son, Antoni Gaudí, along with the highest concentration of art- nouveau-style architecture in the world. It’s also the first neighbourhood in the world to be planned on a grid formation, an experiment amounting to the beginnings of modern town planning.
How did this happen? First a bit of history.
History of Barcelona's Eixample
In the mid-1800s, Barcelona was (literally) bursting at the seams. For various socio-political reasons, its population was expanding rapidly, but at that time everyone was crammed into the old walled city. With everyone living on top of each other, plagues were quick to spread and civil unrest was common.
Clearly, it was time for Barcelona to break out beyond the walls.
Luckily, the city authorities had a huge swathe of farming and military land close to the old city that was ripe to colonize.
To create the layout of the Eixample (which means ‘extension’ in the local Catalan language) they entrusted Illdefons Cerdà, a civil engineer from Madrid.
Cerdà was an enlightened man, whose ambition for the Eixample was to go beyond attractive streets, squares and dwellings for the newly cashed-up. He instead designed a formulaic yet radical neighbourhood of 420 street blocks (called manzanas) of equal size, with plenty of public spaces and the intention that all apartment buildings be of the same height and appearance to foster social cohesion.
Discover our rooms in Eixample
Clearly, it was time for Barcelona to break out beyond the walls.
Luckily, the city authorities had a huge swathe of farming and military land close to the old city that was ripe to colonize.
To create the layout of the Eixample (which means ‘extension’ in the local Catalan language) they entrusted Illdefons Cerdà, a civil engineer from Madrid.
Cerdà was an enlightened man, whose ambition for the Eixample was to go beyond attractive streets, squares and dwellings for the newly cashed-up. He instead designed a formulaic yet radical neighbourhood of 420 street blocks (called manzanas) of equal size, with plenty of public spaces and the intention that all apartment buildings be of the same height and appearance to foster social cohesion.
The modernists move in
Cerdà’s vision for a classless utopia didn’t last long.
As the Eixample’s streets were being laid, a new arts and culture movement was sweeping Catalonia. It was called modernisme (or ‘art nouveau’) and a gang of renegade architects, headed by Antoni Gaudí, spearheaded the movement. In the Eixample, they found a blank slate in which to construct their ornate, fanciful and often
surreal mansions and apartment buildings.
Modernista architecture defines the Eixample neighbourhood. From Gaudi’s masterworks to such as La Pedrera apartment building and the Casa Batlló, to his great unfinished temple La Sagrada Familia, the Eixample is the number one area for Gaudí spotting.
But there are other architects too; Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller and Casa de les Puntxes, fashioned after a medieval castle, are whimsical landmarks. As is Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital San Pau complex. Now a cultural centre, it takes shape with a series of colourful pavilions set across pretty landscaped gardens - a revolutionary idea conceived for the sole purpose of making patients
happy.
While many of these buildings are now open to the public, it’s not unusual to find your own little slice of modernista heaven. Many 19th century apartments retain their original features, such as lavishly patterned flooring, carved wooden entrances (complete with concierge), juliette balconies and high ceilings embellished with
romantic plaster carvings.
Be on the lookout for them when you search for your short-term apartment in the Eixample.
As the Eixample’s streets were being laid, a new arts and culture movement was sweeping Catalonia. It was called modernisme (or ‘art nouveau’) and a gang of renegade architects, headed by Antoni Gaudí, spearheaded the movement. In the Eixample, they found a blank slate in which to construct their ornate, fanciful and often
surreal mansions and apartment buildings.
Modernista architecture defines the Eixample neighbourhood. From Gaudi’s masterworks to such as La Pedrera apartment building and the Casa Batlló, to his great unfinished temple La Sagrada Familia, the Eixample is the number one area for Gaudí spotting.
But there are other architects too; Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller and Casa de les Puntxes, fashioned after a medieval castle, are whimsical landmarks. As is Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital San Pau complex. Now a cultural centre, it takes shape with a series of colourful pavilions set across pretty landscaped gardens - a revolutionary idea conceived for the sole purpose of making patients
happy.
While many of these buildings are now open to the public, it’s not unusual to find your own little slice of modernista heaven. Many 19th century apartments retain their original features, such as lavishly patterned flooring, carved wooden entrances (complete with concierge), juliette balconies and high ceilings embellished with
romantic plaster carvings.
Be on the lookout for them when you search for your short-term apartment in the Eixample.
Getting Around The Eixample
Like most of Barcelona, the best way to get around the Eixample is on foot.
There are several metro stops, not to mention dozens of buses, but hitting the pavement gives you a feel for the area and appreciation for its visual richness. The Eixample grid layout makes navigation fairly easy - and you’ll soon get used to those chamfer street corners - a clever design device that avoids traffic buildup.
If you do get a bit disorientated - remember the ‘mar y muntaña’ ( sea and mountain) trick that locals use. If you feel yourself walking slightly uphill, you are going north, towards the mountains. A downhill slope signifies a southern direction towards the sea - a 30-minute stroll that
will take you through the ancient Gothic heart of Barcelona. But that’s another story.
Find your room in Eixample
There are several metro stops, not to mention dozens of buses, but hitting the pavement gives you a feel for the area and appreciation for its visual richness. The Eixample grid layout makes navigation fairly easy - and you’ll soon get used to those chamfer street corners - a clever design device that avoids traffic buildup.
If you do get a bit disorientated - remember the ‘mar y muntaña’ ( sea and mountain) trick that locals use. If you feel yourself walking slightly uphill, you are going north, towards the mountains. A downhill slope signifies a southern direction towards the sea - a 30-minute stroll that
will take you through the ancient Gothic heart of Barcelona. But that’s another story.
Barcelona’s most expansive neighbourhood is an architectural and cultural marvel. For many locals, it’s the only place to be.
When looking for a short-term apartment in Barcelona, you are likely to find many popping up in a neighbourhood called the ‘Eixample.’ The first thing to know is that it’s pronounced ex-shamp-lay. The second it’s synonymous with Catalan history, architecture, art, and much more besides.
North of the old town and stretching from east to west across the Barcelona metropolitan area, the Eixample is the city’s largest barri. It also happens to hold the masterworks of Barcelona’s most famous son, Antoni Gaudí, along with the highest concentration of art- nouveau-style architecture in the world. It’s also the first neighbourhood in the world to be planned on a grid formation, an experiment amounting to the beginnings of modern town planning.
How did this happen? First a bit of history.
North of the old town and stretching from east to west across the Barcelona metropolitan area, the Eixample is the city’s largest barri. It also happens to hold the masterworks of Barcelona’s most famous son, Antoni Gaudí, along with the highest concentration of art- nouveau-style architecture in the world. It’s also the first neighbourhood in the world to be planned on a grid formation, an experiment amounting to the beginnings of modern town planning.
How did this happen? First a bit of history.
History of Barcelona's Eixample
In the mid-1800s, Barcelona was (literally) bursting at the seams. For various socio-political reasons, its population was expanding rapidly, but at that time everyone was crammed into the old walled city. With everyone living on top of each other, plagues were quick to spread and civil unrest was common.
Clearly, it was time for Barcelona to break out beyond the walls.
Luckily, the city authorities had a huge swathe of farming and military land close to the old city that was ripe to colonize.
To create the layout of the Eixample (which means ‘extension’ in the local Catalan language) they entrusted Illdefons Cerdà, a civil engineer from Madrid.
Cerdà was an enlightened man, whose ambition for the Eixample was to go beyond attractive streets, squares and dwellings for the newly cashed-up. He instead designed a formulaic yet radical neighbourhood of 420 street blocks (called manzanas) of equal size, with plenty of public spaces and the intention that all apartment buildings be of the same height and appearance to foster social cohesion.
Discover our rooms in Eixample
Clearly, it was time for Barcelona to break out beyond the walls.
Luckily, the city authorities had a huge swathe of farming and military land close to the old city that was ripe to colonize.
To create the layout of the Eixample (which means ‘extension’ in the local Catalan language) they entrusted Illdefons Cerdà, a civil engineer from Madrid.
Cerdà was an enlightened man, whose ambition for the Eixample was to go beyond attractive streets, squares and dwellings for the newly cashed-up. He instead designed a formulaic yet radical neighbourhood of 420 street blocks (called manzanas) of equal size, with plenty of public spaces and the intention that all apartment buildings be of the same height and appearance to foster social cohesion.
The modernists move in
Cerdà’s vision for a classless utopia didn’t last long.
As the Eixample’s streets were being laid, a new arts and culture movement was sweeping Catalonia. It was called modernisme (or ‘art nouveau’) and a gang of renegade architects, headed by Antoni Gaudí, spearheaded the movement. In the Eixample, they found a blank slate in which to construct their ornate, fanciful and often
surreal mansions and apartment buildings.
Modernista architecture defines the Eixample neighbourhood. From Gaudi’s masterworks to such as La Pedrera apartment building and the Casa Batlló, to his great unfinished temple La Sagrada Familia, the Eixample is the number one area for Gaudí spotting.
But there are other architects too; Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller and Casa de les Puntxes, fashioned after a medieval castle, are whimsical landmarks. As is Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital San Pau complex. Now a cultural centre, it takes shape with a series of colourful pavilions set across pretty landscaped gardens - a revolutionary idea conceived for the sole purpose of making patients
happy.
While many of these buildings are now open to the public, it’s not unusual to find your own little slice of modernista heaven. Many 19th century apartments retain their original features, such as lavishly patterned flooring, carved wooden entrances (complete with concierge), juliette balconies and high ceilings embellished with
romantic plaster carvings.
Be on the lookout for them when you search for your short-term apartment in the Eixample.
As the Eixample’s streets were being laid, a new arts and culture movement was sweeping Catalonia. It was called modernisme (or ‘art nouveau’) and a gang of renegade architects, headed by Antoni Gaudí, spearheaded the movement. In the Eixample, they found a blank slate in which to construct their ornate, fanciful and often
surreal mansions and apartment buildings.
Modernista architecture defines the Eixample neighbourhood. From Gaudi’s masterworks to such as La Pedrera apartment building and the Casa Batlló, to his great unfinished temple La Sagrada Familia, the Eixample is the number one area for Gaudí spotting.
But there are other architects too; Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s Casa Amatller and Casa de les Puntxes, fashioned after a medieval castle, are whimsical landmarks. As is Domènech i Montaner’s Hospital San Pau complex. Now a cultural centre, it takes shape with a series of colourful pavilions set across pretty landscaped gardens - a revolutionary idea conceived for the sole purpose of making patients
happy.
While many of these buildings are now open to the public, it’s not unusual to find your own little slice of modernista heaven. Many 19th century apartments retain their original features, such as lavishly patterned flooring, carved wooden entrances (complete with concierge), juliette balconies and high ceilings embellished with
romantic plaster carvings.
Be on the lookout for them when you search for your short-term apartment in the Eixample.
Getting Around The Eixample
Like most of Barcelona, the best way to get around the Eixample is on foot.
There are several metro stops, not to mention dozens of buses, but hitting the pavement gives you a feel for the area and appreciation for its visual richness. The Eixample grid layout makes navigation fairly easy - and you’ll soon get used to those chamfer street corners - a clever design device that avoids traffic buildup.
If you do get a bit disorientated - remember the ‘mar y muntaña’ ( sea and mountain) trick that locals use. If you feel yourself walking slightly uphill, you are going north, towards the mountains. A downhill slope signifies a southern direction towards the sea - a 30-minute stroll that
will take you through the ancient Gothic heart of Barcelona. But that’s another story.
Find your room in Eixample
There are several metro stops, not to mention dozens of buses, but hitting the pavement gives you a feel for the area and appreciation for its visual richness. The Eixample grid layout makes navigation fairly easy - and you’ll soon get used to those chamfer street corners - a clever design device that avoids traffic buildup.
If you do get a bit disorientated - remember the ‘mar y muntaña’ ( sea and mountain) trick that locals use. If you feel yourself walking slightly uphill, you are going north, towards the mountains. A downhill slope signifies a southern direction towards the sea - a 30-minute stroll that
will take you through the ancient Gothic heart of Barcelona. But that’s another story.
